Disha for children
With international attention drawn to the unfortunate incidence of child labour in the country, it is time garment and other sectors started a rigorous process of checks to curtail the practice, says GS Sethi

Child labour, ie employment of children (below a certain age) at regular and sustained labour, though universally considered exploitative and declared illegal in many countries, continues unabated. The minimum age prescribed depends on the country and the type of work involved. States ratifying Minimum Age Convention adopted by the International Labour Organization in 1973 have adopted minimum ages varying from 14 to 16 years. According to ILO’s ‘Accelerating Action Against Child Labour’ Report (2010), there are 215 million children employed as child labourers worldwide, of which 115 million are working in hazardous occupations. The condition is worse in the developing countries of Asia and Latin America. In India, as per the Child Labour (Prohibition & Regulation) Act, 1986, employment of children below the age of 14 years is prohibited in notified hazardous occupations and processes. The Act also regulates employment of children in non-hazardous occupations and processes. There are at present 18 hazardous occupations and 65 processes, where employment of children is prohibited.

Why Child Labour?
Poverty (limited resources and more mouths to feed) is by far the most prominent reason for incidence of child labour. Illiteracy further adds to the problem, because parents do not realise the need for a proper physical, emotional and cognitive development of children. Families need additional income and their poverty-stricken way of life makes them so ruthless as to sell their children as commodities to exploitative employers. Industrialists and factory owners find it profitable to employ children, because they can pay less and extract more work. According to the Census 2001, there are 12.6 million child labourers in the country. However, the International Labour Organization and civil society estimate their number at between 40 million and 45 million. The Indian Government has tried to take some steps to alleviate the problem of child labour in recent years by invoking a law that makes the employment of children below 14 illegal, except in family-owned enterprises. However this law is rarely adhered to due to practical difficulties. The law is fine, feel many experts, but the problem remains in its implementation. Unless the society decides to act against employing children, the law alone can’t solve the problem.

Garment sector
There are instances in plenty where children as young as 10 years are subjected to unacceptable work conditions to produce garments for the European and US markets, as reported by the Centre for Research on Multinational Corporations (SOMO), a nonprofit organisation based in the Netherlands. A collaboration with the Indian Committee of the Netherlands, ‘Captured by Cotton’ throws light on the exploitative Sumangali scheme — a form of bonded labour in India’s garment industry particularly in Tamil Nadu. With its promise of a decent wage, comfortable accommodation, and a lump-sum payment at the end of three years that may be used to pay one’s dowry, the Sumangali scheme has attracted a large proportion of young females. SOMO not only denounced the Sumangali scheme as archaic and barbaric, but also called for brands and retailers to adhere to international labour standards and local labour laws, exercise responsible buying practices, and gain a complete understanding of workers’ rights through their supply chain. Nine retailers, including H&M, ASOS, and Tesco, have signed a statement denouncing the Sumangali scheme and other labour-rights abuses.

Efforts to combat menace
Advisory issued: An advisory issued in June 2010 on preventing and combating child labour in the garment industry supply chain and implementation of the labour compliance standards in the apparel sector states:
“The lack of actual implementation of the compliance codes on labour standards and working conditions within the apparel industry poses a serious threat to the image of the country. The engagement of child labour in the supply chain in the apparel industry is prohibited, especially in the process of garment embellishment. This could include bead work, sequin work, hand embroidery and numerous types of hand work which add value to the garments. The Govt. of India and AEPC are increasingly concerned.”

Disha in the offing: Having been censured by global apparel brands, it has been decided by the Indian apparel export industry to adopt zero tolerance on child labour and cleanse the supply chain. Although auditing of supply chain will make the cost of garments go up by 5 per cent for small suppliers and by 1 per cent for big suppliers, yet it will keep India off trade barriers owing to lack of compliance. This has become necessary because there is huge compliance fatigue in the Indian apparel export industry. Since Indian apparel suppliers cater to global brands they have to come to terms that compliance is an essential element of management practice. Apparel Export Promotion Council (AEPC) strongly feels that removal of child labour in supply chain has now become essential to avoid being held at ransom by global buyers. In the recent past, Indian garment industry had attracted global attention on the issue of child labour. Primark, Gap, M&S have had problems with their Indian suppliers in the past, when the latter faulted on compliance. India contributes 3 per cent to global apparel trade. The US, which gives 30 per cent of business to the industry, blacklisted it for using child and forced labour and even cancelled certain shipments for non-compliance. As per a recent media report, the MD of Gokaldas Exports, headquartered in Bangalore, is stated to have said: “Henceforth, whenever we engage in business with global brands, we will have to prove we are not guilty.” The clients of this company include Nike, Reebok, Old Navy, Abercrombie & Fitch, Adidas, Diesel and Levi’s.

It is in such pressing circumstances that APEC has designed a compliance programme – Driving Industry Towards Sustainable Human Capital Advancement, commonly called ‘Disha’ that will be implemented in the $11 billion industry soon. Disha was drafted in consultation with global apparel buyers like H&M, Adidas and Next. The programme will be coordinated and monitored in liaison with the Ministry of Textile.

Disha is basically a faith-building exercise. It will bring in rigorous third-party audit programme with the involvement of international audit agencies in the supply chain. The auditing will take into account the primary facility, subcontractors, sub-subcontractors, and home-based work in villages and even slums. The factory owners will be able to seek accreditation from international agencies, which will make them competent in international business. It is expected that Disha will help exporters of garments understand and comply with global social standards and norms of ILO pertaining to child labour and labour-related aspects including health and safety. Moreover it will help plug cases of trafficking, forced labour and exploitation. The programme, to begin with, will educate the members on various codes they need to follow and suggest corrective plans for further improvement in the areas of labour, health and industrial safety. AEPC has kept a target of enrolling about 700 plus garment factories for initial orientation programme.

Although Disha may not prove end-all, yet it is seen as one of the unique committed steps towards eradication of child labour employment practices and complying with global standards. The industry would not only get a chance to negate international claims against child labour promotion in the garment industry, but also help overall imagery of the industry and win more business. In any case it is of high relevance for garment industry, which is the second largest employment provider in India, employing large number of unskilled and semi-skilled labour.

Hopefully Disha will do its bit in saving children from the clutches of social injustice and educational deprivation and ensure that they are given opportunities for healthy, normal and happy growth.

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